Bucherer Masterworks represents the pinnacle of haute horlogerie, with a masterfully curated selection that is hard to beat in terms of rarity and exclusivity. A conversation with Olivier Gantenbein, Global Associate Director of Haute Horlogerie at Bucherer
Interview: Anka Refghi – Fotos: Ellin Anderegg
Olivier Gantenbein was originally a watchmaker himself. A self-professed “extrovert watchmaker,” his passion for complex timepieces together with a degree in industrial engineering led him from the workshop to sales—and onto the international stage. Since 2022, he has been responsible for haute horlogerie at Bucherer and curates the fine selection of Bucherer Masterworks.
Olivier Gantenbein, you are surrounded by timepieces every day. What does time mean to you?
Especially today, I think it’s important to take time out. For yourself, but also for counterparts. It has something to do with appreciation and respect.
Let’s talk about Bucherer Masterworks. Can you explain the concept in more detail?
Of course. Masterworks is a play on words derived from “Masters at Work” and is Bucherer’s “stage” for exceptional, rare, and complex timepieces in the areas of skeleton watches, tourbillons, the perpetual calendar, and gem-set watches. In our flagship stores in Switzerland, the UK, Germany, Austria, and the USA, where we permanently stock Masterworks watches, we clearly want to be the point of contact for customers looking for something special. But also a place where like-minded people can meet and exchange ideas. It’s about the customer experience, which moves from pure consumption to a genuine experience. So Bucherer Masterworks is a “place to be, to meet and to greet”.
Would you describe Masterworks watches as representing the avant-garde of haute horlogerie?
We certainly have some very unconventional models that could be described as contemporary or avant-garde. For example, timepieces such as the “Sphere Series 1” by Hautlence, “Gotham City” by Jacob & Co., or “Freak” by Ulysse Nardin, but of course we also stock complex models that are more classically traditional in terms of design.
Is complexity a must?
No, there are models that aren’t the most complex, but where the focus is on craftsmanship. Such as the “Slim d’Hermès Tied up in knots” with its miniature painting on the dial.
When does a watch have “what it takes” to be a Masterworks watch?
When it has that special something that surprises the enthusiast and is fascinating in every respect. I would characterise it as a balance between mechanical complexity, aesthetics, and meticulous craftsmanship. This can vary—whether it’s inspired by art in a particular way, an innovative technical approach, or the highest level of precision—but what they all have in common is that they are true works of art for the wrist.
It’s interesting that, in addition to major brands, you also include niche brands such as Armin Strom from Biel, the Geneva-based manufacturer Urwerk, and Jacob & Co. in your portfolio…
Correct. We’re interested in established brands as well as niche brands. Small but very distinguished watch manufacturers that create exceptional timepieces. Such as Armin Strom’s skeleton watches, which are true miniature works of art. We want to take our end customers on a journey of discovery and to new horizons.
Does Bucherer see itself as a supporter of smaller brands?
As a premium multi-brand retailer, we have a number of brands in our portfolio, and Masterworks naturally helps us diversify and complement this portfolio. Especially with smaller brands that may not have been well-known (until now). Yes, in a certain sense, we also see ourselves as trendsetters for the “brands of the future.”
You mentioned “Masters at Work”… How important are the stories behind the watches?
The masters, the watch masters, artists, and product developers behind the watches are very important to us. It’s primarily about emotions, philosophy, and insights behind the scenes of the creative process. Smaller brands in particular are rich in stories that you can’t easily find online. Last year, we launched the video interview series “Masters at Work” to tell the story behind the models.
Let’s talk about luxury and zeitgeist – how important is uniqueness today?
We’re actually seeing an increased demand for something special, for genuine craftsmanship. We’re clearly seeing a younger generation willing to spend relatively large amounts of money on something that not everyone has.
“Quiet Luxury” is on everyone’s lips. Which model comes to mind?
The “Bucherer Exclusive – A Trilogy of Time” – three highly complex timepieces with amber sand fumé dials by H. Moser & Cie., created in collaboration with Bucherer. These dials do not carry a logo.
Finally: Bucherer Masterworks – wear or collect?
Our collectors wear our watches, and that’s naturally also very desirable.
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